Domaine Bohn ‘Le Coup de Jus’ Rouge 2021

Location: France, Alsace

Winemaker: Bernard & Arthur Bohn

Grapes: Pinot Noir, Riesling & Pinot Gris

Soil: Schist, volcanic sandstone

Winemaking: The Pinot Noir grapes are picked as whole bunches and infused in Riesling & Pinot Gris juice. 70-year-old vines.

From the Importer Paris Wine Company: Bernard says about this wine’s personality, "I’m rejoicing after several long years of aging on the lees. I am a harmonious crémant with fine bubbles, elegant and complex, who reveals the excellence of my terroir. My nose shows notes of almonds and saffron enlaced with aromas of sandalwood and comes together with a freshness that is both mineral and salty. One can enjoy me with salmon in sauce, pan-seared scallops, roast fowl, or alone as an apéritif."

Since taking over the family winery at the age of 18, Bernard Bohn has crafted an individually unique style of wines on the only outcrop of schist terroir in Alsace. The Bohn family members have been winegrowers for well over three centuries in Reichsfeld, a small village at the far end of the valley, where until recently, the local Alsatian dialect was still more common than French. Today, Bernard and his son Arthur farm just over 9 hectares and go beyond organic agriculture to incorporate uncommon techniques, such as completely abandoning vineyard plowing and allowing cover crops to coexist to create balance in the vines.

Bernard has always had an independent streak. While still in high school, he decided to leave his Jesuit boarding school and enroll in the local winemaking program. With the bare minimum certification in hand, he returned home and announced to his father that he would like to take over the winery. At the time, the domaine was spread out over many small parcels in the village, but Bernard had his sights on the Schieferberg, a backbreaking steep slope composed of nearly pure schist, where the Bohn family had constructed a small chapel many years earlier. Through a series of purchases, inherited vineyards, and trades with other winemakers who preferred flatter and easier to work parcels, Bohn managed to cobble together a single 5-hectare parcel of old vine Riesling and Pinot Gris.

Like many domaines in Alsace, the winery produces a dizzying array of cuvées (33 at last count). Chez Bohn, they largely fall into two camps: the ‘typical’ Alsatian wines and the natural wines labeled ‘Par Nathur’. All wines come from their own organically-farmed vineyards and are fermented with native yeasts.

The ‘typical’ Alsatian wines are anything but typical. Riesling and Pinot Gris are planted on the schist in Reichsfeld, while Sylvaner, Muscat, Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Noir come from precambrian sandstone on the facing hillside in Bernardvillé. Bernard has always believed in the supremacy of schist and releasing wines when they are ready to drink, so the flagship Pinot Gris and Riesling from Shieferberg are often held back in bottle for 6 years or more before release. Bohn is also justifiably proud of his Pinot Noir. Since the Middle Ages, the sandstone hills have been reputed for excellent red wines, and Bohn produces a range of Pinots, from typical light-bodied expressions to fuller, medium-bodied examples aged in barrel. Then there’s the Vintage Crémant, which is aged for 12 years on the lees before disgorgement.

The ‘natural’ wines are always vinified and bottled unfiltered with no added SO2. Following a stern letter from the AOC, which ‘reminded’ the domaine that the label ‘Par Nature’ (by nature) was not allowed, they combined Arthur and Nature to create ‘Par Nathur,’ which is ‘tolerated’ by the AOC, though not necessarily approved. In this range, we find not only a sans soufre version of the ‘typical’ range, but Bohn specials, such as a field-blend orange wine or a ‘vin de soif’ made from whole cluster Pinot Noir grapes infused in Pinot Gris and Riesling.